Living in Nice France Pros and Cons. Nice has been a ‘sometimes’ home for me for 10 years now, while I was living in London.
I used to fly down a couple times a month and enjoy my cute apartment in Old Town, just a stone’s throw from the Mediterranean Sea. Ok, it’s literally a 4-minute walk to the beach at the pace I go.
Nice is now my primary home and I have a different perspective. Like any place, there’s the good, the bad and the ugly of this Mediterranean travel destination. I know lots of folks who would love living in Nice France, so I put together 14 reasons why I love living in Nice, and a few reasons I don’t.
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14 Reasons I love Living in Nice France – Pros
The Weather in Nice
Nice boasts 300 days of sunshine a year, and the bright sunny days are synonymous with the Cote d’Azur, in general.
I was suffering from a severe lack of sunshine in London, to the point I originally bought a place in Southern Italy. Fortunately, I pulled out of that purchase and found a place in Nice, instead. It felt much more sophisticated and the weather was just what I was looking for.
Growing up in Wisconsin, we had cold winters, but at least we had sunny days! I need to see the sun and Nice gets plenty of sunshine.
Even when it’s chilly in Nice, but the sun is out, it’s a lovely place.
The cafes turn on their heat lamps and there are wind blocks. You can still enjoy the lovely Nice cafe culture even when the weather is crisp.
You can be outside year round in Nice, even in winter.
Living in Nice France makes you appreciate history
I love the history of Europe, in general. Who doesn’t? And living in Nice makes you appreciate it even more. Nice was tossed back and forth between Italy and France which adds to the intrigue of this area. Nice was under Italian rule until 1860; then it became part of France.
It’s cool to hear the local folks in my neighborhood still speak a local dialect that is a mix of French and Italian, and the street signs are in French and Nicois.
Views of apartment exteriors in Nice France
My hometown had a few beautiful, historical homes, but that doesn’t compare to the 300-year-old building I live in. That just blows my mind… There’s a 400-year-old convent behind me, and to know that my building was built onto that 100 years later, is just surreal.
The architecture of these buildings is amazing. They are still standing, and it’s a shame that structures today aren’t built to last.
La Reserve Restaurant Nice, France – built into the rocks
Archeological Digs in Nice
I love walking up to Castle Hill. It’s quite amazing. Castle Hill is where the origins of Nice began. There are fortress walls and ruins you can still see today. There’s a Christian and a Jewish Cemetery up there as well. It’s the roots of Nice.
A friend of mine was on an archaeological dig a few years ago, where she was uncovering pieces of the old, original chapel. The main archaeologists were doing the bigger dig and she was up there in her ‘Indiana Jones’ hat and dirty neck scarf dusting off what they were uncovering. I seriously wanted to go up there and help them dig up everything! I find it all fascinating, and by doing so, you are also a part of the history of what is uncovered.
You take history for granted when you have it around you. My first trip to Italy 30 years ago scarred me for life with all the history. Things I’d only ever seen in books. It left an impression on my life that will last forever.
Walkway up to Castle Hill in Nice
Location of Nice on the Mediterranean Sea and Bay of Angels
The Mediterranean Sea needs little introduction. Not sure what it is about saying, “Mediterranean Sea,” but it smacks of luxury, beauty and desire. It just struck a chord with me.
The waters in Nice become a turquoise, milky blue. Not like the see-through Caribbean, but there’s more contrast. Some days it’s staggeringly beautiful and the blue extends for quite some distance, and other days, after the rains, it’s completely murky brown. That’s because the minerals and sediments from the mountains are slipping down to the Med.
Also, when I first started living in Nice, I didn’t realize it was called the Bay of Angels. Those who know me, know I’m a big believer in angels and fate, and that may have been a reason how I ended up living in Nice France by the Bay of Angels.
The Fresh Food Markets in Nice
Living in Nice France you have plenty of reasons to eat healthily.
Nice has a couple of good fresh vegetable markets. One is on the Cours Saleya in Old Town, which is parallel to the Promenade des Anglais. That market caters more to tourists because of its location, but they have good quality products, and there’s a fabulous flower market, too.
I love looking at the skinny lemon trees with huge lemons hanging on them. I wonder how they don’t tip over. And you can usually get a cute bouquet of flowers for $5.
The second market, and better one, in my opinion, is the Liberation Market near the Liberation Tram stop.
At the Liberation market you’ll find local vendors from France and Italy selling good quality fresh and organic products.
The best vendors in my opinion are down Roassal Street, where you’ll find an Italian vendor at the end and a North African one next to them. Their prices are the best in the market and the quality is super.
There’s yet another market vendor on the right side that has a lot of vegetables in bowls for $1.10. Some of the vegetables may look at bit manky, and some are perfectly fine.
The bowls for €1 are great if you find items you’ll cook up or consume today. They are also good for items you plan to blend or juice.
Liberation Market in Nice
The Local Events and Festivals in Nice and around the Cote d’Azur
There are so many local festivals in Nice and along the Cote d’Azur. You simply need to check your calendar and go. Whether you love Garlic, Onions or organic items, there are festivals to attend. Then there’s the Honey Festival in Mouans Sartoux, the Nice Carnaval, the Menton Citrus Festival, the Nice Jazz Festival and Jazz at Juan-Les-Pins. There are so many local festivals where they celebrate their local fare and local traditions. I usually put annual reminders in my calendar so I follow up on which festivals are on and when.
Many of these are a way to connect with smaller towns to celebrate what they are known for. There’s always something going on.
I love going to the Honey Festival in Mouans-Sartoux just an hour from Nice.
The Art Scene in Nice and the Cote d’Azur
The art scene in the South of France is well known. This used to be the playground of Picasso, Chagall, Miro, Matisse and many other famous artists. There are numerous galleries where you can see their pieces.
Go to St Paul de Vence for the day to see this artist village that is very much alive and kicking today. You can buy original pieces from famous artists and signed prints, and take a piece of history home with you.
Just one stop on the bus before St. Paul, you have the Fondation Maeght where you find one of the most important private collections of modern and contemporary art. They have interesting temporary installations throughout the year and the foundation is in a beautiful, woodsy setting with lovely, sculpted gardens.
There’s the Picasso museum in Antibes, the glassblowers in the village of Biot, the Matisse and Chagall Museums in Nice. There’s something for every art lover.
Christo Exhibit at the Fondation Maeght – B: 1935 – D: May 31, 2020
As time goes on, the art scene has morphed. I find artists appear to latch onto the success of the famous, impressionist artists by means of location. Almost as if to say, I’m in the South of France where all the greats were, thus my art, too, is great. And it fails. Art becomes a twisted version of someone’s reality, which generally is true, but you need to pick and choose what you see based on your preference.
I have attended a variety of gallery openings, but I find some of the art stifling, provocative, and on the verge of being perverse. I’ve seen photo displays of female genitalia, stinking bodily hair hanging from a ladder, and public hair pasted onto the outside of a white dress. I don’t appreciate it.
French Healthcare
You may have heard that the healthcare in France is very good. It is! We are covered by a universal government system plan, which is frankly, quite sufficient. If you need to visit the doctor, it will cost you around $25 for a visit.
I took my mom to the emergency room 10 years ago and they charged her $25, plus we had to get some medicine which cost $16. I know these prices because my mom kept the receipts! She was so flabbergasted that a foreigner would receive treatment at such a cheap cost. She was interested in living in Nice with me simply for this fact.
Recently, we are asked to buy into a supplemental healthcare insurance, kind of like in the US. This will cover us for expenses on top of what the government will pay for standard services. This is more for specialists providers and it’s being required of foreigners. In France, it’s called a Mutuelle, but it’s still reasonable.
The Transport system – International Airport/trains/buses
Transport here is really reasonable, and usually reliable, except when there’s a strike.
For the bus and tram, you simply buy a 10-ride ticket for $11 and you have 10 rides. And the bus will take you all the way to the Italian border, which is about a 2-hour ride!
There are also buses that take you to other parts of Europe, such as FlixBus and EuroLines. The buses and tram are cheap and clean.
The Nice Cote d’Azur International Airport is just 4 miles from the center of Nice and accommodated 1 million passengers a month before the covid-19 outbreak. Now, one of the Terminals is closed until 2021 and we wait for the other terminal to open up.
There were more than 100 destinations to fly to from Nice, and sometimes there were 15 flights a day to London, which was really handy when I first came here. There are more seasonal flights in the summer to warmer destinations.
We have a reliable train service, which scoops us to Italy in 40 minutes. I love taking taking day trips from Nice to Italy on the train. There are the national French trains, and there’s a Thello Line that will take you from Nice to Milan in about 4 hours.
Train travel is pricier in France than any other transport in my opinion, but I love taking the train because it’s so relaxing for everyone involved.
The Staggering Beauty of the Cote D’Azur
Living in Nice France and the Cote d’Azur is a feast for the eyes. This area, and the South of France in general, is so incredibly charming. I don’t know whether it’s the trees, the colors of the buildings, the color of the sea or what. But all wrapped up, it’s just so frickin’ beautiful.
The drive from Nice to Monaco and beyond that winds around the Mediterranean is just staggering. The mountains and the cliff-hugging homes are jaw-dropping. The views from Eze Village are just incredible. Wondering through the trees up on Castle Hill make you feel like you are miles away from anyone.
Walking Nietzche path from Eze Village
Music Scene
There are plenty of opportunities to see live music in Nice. You’ll find many restaurants with a small trio or duo performing. Plus there are numerous venues with live music – most notably are Kosma Club, Shapko Bar, Ma Nolan’s Irish Pubs, Akathor Pub, and the bar at the Negresco Hotel, to name a few.
One place to go for traditional jazz is Cave Romagnan on Rue d’Angleterre. It’s one of the oldest wine caves in Nice, and on Saturday evening from 7-10pm, this tiny hole in the wall fills up with traditional jazz and blues.
There are usually more musicians than the space can hold, and getting a drink there can be a challenge, because people belly up to the bar and the manager isn’t interested in serving anyone quickly.
Ability to Speak Italian and Improve my French
Living in Nice, you can easily get by with English and Italian. But it’s great to know that I have 3 different ways to communicate to people.
I was worried I would lose my Italian living in Nice, but I have plenty of opportunities daily to use it. Plus it allows me to improve my French, which I really need to do.
My biggest challenge with the French language is using the telephone. For one, I don’t like the telephone, and if I do need to speak in French on the phone, it’s usually with some service provider – like the phone company or electric company. I need to see people’s lip when I speak and the phone is the worst for my language confidence.
Living in Old Town Nice, everything is on my doorstep
Since I live in Old Town Nice, which is a village within itself, I literally fall out my door to a coffee shop, bakeries, butchers, grocery stores and restaurants. Everything is on my doorstep. And Nice is a relatively safe place to live.
The tram and bus are around the corner. I walk 4 minutes to the beach. Two train stations are within 15 minutes from me. The hospital is a 20-minute tram ride away and the pharmacy is at the end of my street. The leafy Castle Hill is only a 20 minute walk up.
I seriously can’t complain about my location for convenience. I’ve thought about moving out of Old Town, but sometimes I can’t justify it. Plus it’s easy to see friends when they come to town. I’m only 10 minutes away from anything, really.
My street is always buzzing especially the butchers in the morning.
However, the thing you need to realize is that within Old Town, the locals are not interested in mingling with you. They have a standard clientele, for decades, and even if they see you 3x a week, they will not say hello to you and will continue to treat you like an outsider.
I’m here 10 years and I’m still treated like they don’t recognize me, even though they see me every other day. There’s no, ‘Hello.’ Nothing. Do not delude yourself. These people are happy for your money, but they don’t care about who you are or how you are doing.
Living in Nice France is practically living in Italy – Proximity to Italy
I should really move this higher up, because it truly is one of the main reasons I decided on living in Nice France.
I was originally looking for a place in Italy since I studied there in college and fell in love with Italy. But when I came to the Cote d’Azur I felt I could have the best of both worlds. I’m only 50 minutes from Italy by train, and I pop over from Nice to Italy for a day trip twice a month.
Originally the number of direct flights to London was a big consideration, and Nice has 10-15 direct flights a day. That meant I could easily fly down to Nice on a Friday evening and be back in the office on Monday morning.
I was also concerned that if I moved to Italy it would ruin my idyllic memories of my time there as a student.
Studying abroad is one thing. I felt like I was on a year-long vacation when living there. As an adult with bills and responsibilities, it would be a different story. I was worried that the bureaucracy in Italy would make me hate it, like I hate France, sometimes. Like the US. Same, same. Now I just dip in on occasion, get my Italian fix and then come back to Nice.
Charming street in Ventimiglia Italy
Living in Nice France you are so Close to the Mountains
Living in Nice France will make you realize how much you love the mountains and outdoors.
While I don’t get up there often enough, the mountains and ski resorts of Valberg, Auron and Isola 2000 are 1.5hrs from Nice by bus. It doesn’t matter if it’s the summer or winter, they are stunning to see and a great way to spend a day trip from Nice.
And France has some wonderful ski resorts. The second time I went skiing, I was in Chamonix by Mont Blanc, and that resort area is so incredibly beautiful.
Auron France in October
Living in Nice France – The Cons
Customer Service
Living in Nice don’t expect great customer service. It’s an oxymoron here. It doesn’t matter if you are at the post office, the bank, in a shop, at a restaurant or bar. There just appears to be no need for customer service.
It’s particularly unnerving in restaurants and bar where I’m used to servers going over the top to ensure they get a good tip. Not here.
Waiters make a standard wage, and tips are called, ‘Pourboire’, or translated as, ‘to drink.’ Tips are so you can have something to drink at the end of your shift, not to pay your mortgage! Thus, they don’t give a shit if they get to your table or not.
And you can forget someone coming over to ask if your overcooked burger is just right. They don’t care. They’ll come back at the end of the meal to gather your plate. You need to flag them down like a New York taxi if you want something changed, or God forbid they forget to give you napkins or ketchup. If I were a waitress in this town, I’d make so much money… I’d be running rings around these people!
Utility Companies and Services
Don’t get me started. You can easily sign up for a cell phone in Nice. They’ll happily put you on a plan, take your details, your choice of automatic payment, but when you need to change something, you’re sent to an antiquated system of having to call the frickin’ phone company.
See my comment about speaking French on the phone above. I just can’t do it. I will sooner cancel my phone contract by mail and start with a new company than have to deal with trying to renegotiate my phone contract on the phone with someone I can’t see. Those morons in the shops are there to sell and there’s no after care.
The electric company continues to send me harassing letters every couple of months because I refuse to get one of their smart meters. I’m completely against it and they treat me like I’m a stupid foreigner who is unaware of my rights. The concept of ‘fu*k the foreigner is rife here.
Then when you want to cancel something, it has to be done by registered mail, which you have to pay extra for. I swear the post office is in cahoots with these companies as they just feed off one another.
The Syndic (Condo Association)
We all pay into maintaining our buildings, unless you are fortunate enough to have your own private home. So we all have to pay in for the maintenance of the facades and interior corridors, interior lighting, the electronic doorbell, the roof – bla, bla, bla. I pay $1500 a year for my upkeep. This is simply the lights in the hallway, making sure the security phone downstairs works, the cleaning lady who does 5 floors with one bucket of water and the Syndic’s charges… Highway robbery, run by old Italian/French mob families.
These fees go to the Syndic or condo association who manages the collective property. They are responsible for getting quotes, getting shit done, and holding an annual meeting to tell you how great they are. These Syndics are like old mafia families that have been manage a racket for centuries – because they have! Don’t kid yourself. They need to be abolished.
We recently had quotes to paint the facade of our building. Actually just the front face because we have no sides and they don’t care about the back because that faces a 400 year-old wall, and tourists don’t see that. All the quotes came in around $50,000. Correct… $50,000 to paint the frickin’ FRONT of our 4 story building… Clearly it does not cost $50,000 and I would love go out and do the bidding myself and see what I come up with. But I can tell you the Syndic is making a killing off of overcharging owners, and getting kickbacks from the suppliers. You can be sure of that.
The Noon Cannon
You hear it every day at noon, and every day it still scares the shit out of me.
The famous midday cannon in Nice has been a tradition since the time of Lord Coventry-More’s visits to Nice in the 1860s.
Story be told, Lord Coventry-More and his wife used to vacation in Nice away from Scotland’s cold weather. Well, the misses was too busy gossiping daily with the other British women that she’d forget to prepare lunch for her husband. He’d be waiting and waiting …for his lunch… Like the guys couldn’t fix himself a sandwich!!
To fix the problem, he convinced the city to set off a cannon ever day at noon to remind her it was time to come home and make his lunch…. and we live with that misery every day.
It’s fine if you live outside of Old Town because it’s not that loud. I swear they set that thing off from my roof top, and I will never get accustomed to the shock of that noise. It even made my mom drop her coffee cup once… She called it, ‘That Cursed Cannon.’ 🙂
Changing Demographics
This was a problem the first time I came to Nice in 1997. People didn’t go into Old Town at night because it was dangerous. The streets were dimly lit and there was crime, theft, drug addicts – generally unsafe.
Now, in 2020, I’m finding the demographics of Old Town Nice once again changing, and it doesn’t feel safe.
I’m not one to stay out late, but we have an increasing growth of homeless on the streets whether local or immigrant, beggars, buskers with no musical talent playing the same song over and over, and unruly locals and tourists.
Just tonight I witnessed a restaurant manager below me get into an argument with my heavily pot-smoking neighbors. Why? Because the neighbors threw or poured water on the guests of the restaurant below. You could hear the manager screaming at them, then all of a sudden wine glasses started to be thrown at their window. The neighbor proceeded to throw down a glass of something himself. It’s out of control. We who live here have no peace, and those trying restaurants to make a living after covid want to let their patrons stay a little later.
Nice is not France
Yes, it’s located in France, but it’s not French. Remember, Nice was Italian until 1860, and there are a lot of Italians here, but now it’s a mixture of Italian/French, North Africans from Algeria and Tunisia, and tourists. There is little that is authentically French about Nice. If you want authentic, you need to go further west toward Provence.
This is where I’m at, at the moment. I originally came here because I wanted to be close to Italy with directly flights to London for work. Now that I’m a consultant who works from home, I’m seriously considering my priorities, and I’m not sure if living in Nice France will win out or not.
Well there you have it. What are your thoughts about living in Nice France? Would you give it a go, or a No!
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