A detailed account and full travel guide to the newly-discovered Lazarev emperor penguin colony in Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica, including how to visit, where it is and what it costs.
The icy wind bites my face as I step off the Twin Otter, my boots crunching on the crust of the Lazarev Ice Shelf.
The stark white expanse of towering tabular icebergs form a barrier on all sides, with the glistening sea of snow stretching to their bases under a dramatic sky.
The silence is profound, broken only by the distant, haunting calls of the world’s most resilient bird.
I take a deep breath of cold air, mostly to calm my adrenaline, and look out between the bergs.
There they are – thousands of emperor penguins standing proudly against the icy backdrop, their golden necks reaching skyward while their young chicks huddle for warmth.
The colony stands in the distance amongst a snowy and icy backdrop.
This is the Lazarev colony, in a remote location in Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica, that up until this very moment has never been seen by humans before.
Our intrepid group of 10 adventurers, comprised of mountain guides, an ornithologist, pilots, expedition leader, a filmmaker and myself as a photographer, are the first people in history to visit this colony.
READ MORE: Check out our complete guide on travelling to Antarctica!
Tears build in my eyes at both the beauty of wildlife spread out before me, and the realisation that we have just achieved one of the greatest travel experiences imaginable.
I breathe in the frigid air once more, wipe the tears on my gloves, and walk towards the birds.
An emperor penguin adult stands amongst a creche of chicks at the Lazarev colony.
The Lazarev Emperor Penguin Colony – A Travel Guide to Antarctica’s Newest Tourism Experience
In November 2024 I was fortunate enough to be part the very first group of humans to ever visit the Lazarev emperor penguin colony on a reconnaissance mission to deep field Antarctica with Islands and Ice Travel and Ultima Antarctic Expeditions.
I spent two weeks on the continent, visiting both the Lazarev and Astrid emperor penguin colonies, staying at the newly-built Ultima Oasis and exploring the vast beauty of the Schirmacher Oasis rising out of the sprawling ice sheet.
Having worked in Antarctica since 2017 on expedition ships I knew that a journey to this part of the continent was something special.
While over 120,000 tourists will visit the Antarctic Peninsula this season, less than 250 make it to ‘Deep Field’ out of South Africa.
It really is one of the most remote and least-visited places in the world.
To see an emperor penguin colony is equally as remote and difficult due to the birds living in some of the harshest environments imaginable.
The team at Ultima managed to pioneer the expedition to Lazarev, thus opening up the new colony to a very small number of tourists on highly limited groups departing Cape Town.
It was an honour to be involved in this history-making wildlife experience.
Here is everything you need to know about visiting the Lazarev emperor penguin colony.
The Lazarev emperor penguin colony – as seen on our world-first visit.
The Discovery of the Lazarev Emperor Penguin Colony
The Lazarev emperor penguin colony, located on the northern edge of the Lazarev Ice Shelf in Queen Maud Land (also known as Dronning Maud Land), Antarctica, is a recently discovered breeding site of the world’s most remarkable bird.
Originally referred to as the Lazarev North emperor penguin colony before the ‘north’ was dropped due to there being no other colony in the vicinity, this place was identified by studying satellite imagery captured between 2018 and 2022.
The discovery became one of four previously undocumented emperor penguin colonies.
The story of Lazarev traces its roots to a historically documented colony further south on the Lazarev Ice Shelf, first observed in 1959.
That original colony was a thriving hub for emperor penguins, with an estimated 4,500 breeding pairs recorded in 2009.
However by 2014 the site appeared deserted, and by 2019 it was declared extinct.
Flying over the edge of the Lazarev Ice Shelf, where the colony was recently discovered via satellite imagery.
Changes in the region’s sea-ice conditions and the extension of the ice tongue likely forced the colony to abandon its original breeding grounds.
A few years later a research project led by Dr Peter Fretwell from the British Antarctic Survey detected telltale signs of four new emperor penguin colones – brown stains of guano on the pristine ice – using high-resolution imagery.
This technique, increasingly used for monitoring remote wildlife populations, confirmed the existence of this particular colony at approximately 69.24°S and 14.35°E.
While Lazarev is smaller than its predecessor, its possible reestablishment highlights the adaptability of emperor penguins in the face of environmental changes.
Looking out from the window of our Twin Otter aircraft at the edge of the sea ice.
Unlike its earlier counterpart, which succumbed to shifting ice conditions, the new colony demonstrates how these resilient birds can find new locations to sustain their population.
During our visit David Sinclair used special permits approved by the Australian Antarctic Division and IAATO (International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators) to undertake an aerial survey count of the colony, and estimated around 1100 chicks to be present as of November, 2024.
As the effects of climate change continue to reshape Antarctica, Lazarev serves as a vital indicator of how emperor penguins respond to changing sea-ice dynamics.
Its discovery underscores the importance of ongoing monitoring and conservation efforts for this iconic species.
The Lazarev colony – first visited by humans during our expedition in November 2024. 
Emperor adults and chicks at the colony.
Where is the Lazarev Emperor Penguin Colony?
The Lazarev emperor penguin colony is currently situated about 195km northeast of the Shirmacher Oasis’ Novo Air Base in Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica.
On our visit to Lazarev on November 5th, 2024 the GPS coordinates were 69°40’S, 14°59’E.
It is important to note that the colony lives on fast ice, meaning frozen ocean that is attached to the mainland, and this will change every year.
Between two tabular icebergs – a truly remarkable place to find the Lazarev emperor penguin colony.
How to Get to the Lazarev Emperor Penguin Colony
A trip to the Lazarev emperor penguin colony requires a logistical mountain of organisation, operations, planning and permits to one of the most remote regions on the planet, making it near-impossible for someone to visit independently.
Luckily a partnership between two South African and Australian companies has managed to bring this dream to life.
Ultima Antarctic Expeditions, a Cape Town-based logistics company that has been operating the Novo Air Base and providing access for the nearby scientific bases for two decades, has joined forces with award-winning photographer, legendary Antarctic expedition leader and co-founder of Islands and Ice Travel, David Sinclair, to bring a small number of tourists to this part of the continent as of 2023.
This joint venture now means private citizens can visit the Lazarev colony fairly easily.
David Sinclair, founder of Islands and Ice Travel and veteran Antarctica expedition leader, at the Astrid emperor penguin colony.
Trips to Novo Air Base start and finish in Cape Town, South Africa, with a 5.5-hour flight onboard a special Ilyushin Il-76 cargo plane that is fitted to transport personnel and equipment to Antarctica.
Normally filled with scientists and workers for the Novolazarevskaya and Maitri research bases found at the Oasis, Ultima and Islands and Ice Travel have organised to be able to bring 8 guests to the Novo Air Base on the aircraft.
Once you land in Antarctica you are driven in an ice-converted Toyota Hilux 4×4 to the luxurious Ultima Oasis Camp, which will be your comfortable home during your time on the continent.
The Ilyushin Il-76TD-90VD aircraft that transported us from Cape Town directly to deep field Antarctica. 
The ‘Arctic Trucks’ that are used to drive around the ice shelf at Schirmacher Oasis in Dronning Maud Land, Antarctica.
Depending on the tour that you have booked you will have anywhere between 4 to 8 days down here, with a journey to Lazarev being one of the objectives.
When a weather window presents itself, you are then driven from camp back up to the air strip to board a Twin Otter plane, operated by aviation legends in the polar regions, Kenn Borek Air.
After completing a safety briefing from the pilots you board the ski-equipped Twin Otter and fly the 45 minutes to the edge of the ice shelf to search for the colony.
The mighty Twin Otter – the ultimate aircraft for getting around the continent.
Once it has been located the pilots will circle around a few times to scope out landing conditions, and if safe to do so, touch down directly on the ice at a long distance from the penguins to not disturb them.
IAATO regulations stipulate that you must keep a minimum of 1km distance between aircraft and the colony, so once the plane has powered down you disembark directly onto the ice and start the hike to the colony.
The maximum duration of the visit is 3 hours, and when your time has elapsed with these magnificent birds you walk back to the plane and return to the Novo air strip.
Our group disembarking the Twin Otter on the Lazarev Ice Shelf.
When is the Best Time to Visit the Lazarev Emperor Penguin Colony?
Emperor penguins have a very unique breeding cycle, giving birth to their chicks on fast ice during the southern winter months, before heading out to sea once the sea ice breaks up towards the end of December.
This cycle, combined with the harsh weather that can be found in deep field Antarctica right into summer, means it’s only possible to visit an emperor penguin colony during a narrow time frame.
In this part of Antarctica flights to the continent for tourism can only open up from towards the end of October, and this is when companies like Ultima actually start do restock and prepare their camps for the upcoming season.
Once the camps are reestablished the visits to colonies such as Lazarev, and the nearby Astrid colony, can begin.
Dates for the upcoming season to visit Lazarev emperor penguin colony have now been set, and this will happen on various tours between October 28th and December 4th.
A waddle of penguins gather in front of a large tabular iceberg at Lazarev.
What to Expect at the Colony
When our Twin Otter touched down on the ice sheet we donned our heavy outerwear jackets and carefully climbed out of the aircraft.
There was strong breeze kicking up ice crystals and making the -20°C air feel a few degrees colder, which only added to the mystical atmosphere.
In the distance we could see the specks of emperor penguins huddled together, appearing through the haze of the wind-blown snow.
Around a dozen adult emperors started making their way towards us, tobogganing on their bellies using their feet to propel forward at fast pace, with pure curiosity.
Emperors toboggan across the ice.
They sprung to their feet and gazed at the giant creatures in front of them. Having never seen humans before they were inquisitive, and kept approaching while we slowly backed away.
This is what it’s like at Lazarev – wildlife completely unconcerned by our presence.
With IAATO protocols for responsible wildlife viewing stipulating that all aircraft must stay at least 1km away from a colony, the pilots touch down on the ice at a suitable distance and all visitors must walk across the snow.
The Ultima mountain guides will go first, using probes to check the stability of the ice underfoot before giving the all-clear for the rest of the group to follow.
An ornithologist and expedition leader go next, with us following closely behind, ensuring the emperor penguins are not disturbed by humans by pausing at regular intervals to look for signs of distress, changes in behaviour and for any possible symptoms of avian flu.
Some of the crew I travelled with walking back from the colony.
We spent around 30 minutes slowly approaching the colony, and once it was determined there were no concerns at all we were then free to wander.
There are of course further regulations, such as staying a minimum of 5m (15 feet) from all birds and not being allowed to kneel, squat or place anything on the ground.
The 3 hours we were allowed to spend at the colony felt like it was over in a matter of minutes, and I took my time walking between smaller groups of the emperors.
Being so close to one of the world’s most elusive birds, a species that even 99% of visitors to Antarctica on expedition ships will never see, was an emotional experience.
Visiting in early season (October and November) gives the best opportunity to see emperor penguin chicks in their ‘biggles’ suits.
The sounds – an orchestra of calls echoing across the ice as adults trumpet to one another across the colony and chicks chirp urgently, trying to find their parents in the crowd – were constant and beautiful.
The sight of these wondrous birds and their fluffy chicks, something I never thought I’d have the privilege of encountering, brought tears of awe to my eyes.
When our time was up we made our way back to the Twin Otter, loaded in and began the short journey back to the Ultima Oasis camp.
The most elusive birds on the planet in all their glory.
What Does it Cost to Visit the Emperor Penguins of Lazarev?
It should come as no surprise that a journey to the ends of the earth to see one of the world’s most remote wildlife colonies comes with a high price point.
There are a tremendous amount of services, logistics, permits, staff and goods that go into organising an expedition to Dronning Maud Land, but it’s worth it if you want to have one of the most exclusive wildlife and travel experiences on the planet.
Ultima Antarctic Expeditions and Islands and Ice Travel are the only operators with a licence and permit to bring tourists to the Lazarev emperor penguin colony, and numbers of guests allowed on their packaged tours are strictly limited to 8 maximum.
The tours do not just visit Lazarev but also a number of other locations around the Schirmacher Oasis, including the Ice Wall, Ice Cave, a scenic flight and landing around the stunning Drygalski Mountains and possibly the Astrid emperor penguin colony that is nearby.
Seeing emperor penguins, and their chicks, in a colony is one of the world’s most exclusive and remarkable wildlife experiences.
Everything is included in the tour:
- Return flights on a specially-equipped Ilyushin charter plane from Cape Town to Novo Air Base
- Luxury accommodation at the newly-built Utima Oasis Camp
- All meals and drinks, including premium alcohol
- All permits required for the journey
- At least one visit to the Lazarev emperor penguin colony
- All activities and flights in the itinerary
- Rental of extreme cold weather clothing including boots, pants, jacket, ski goggles and gloves
- Transport around the Schirmacher Oasis in custom-built 4x4s
- Accompanied by seasoned Antarctic expedition leader and award-winning photographer, David Sinclair
There are also a number of other tours you can do later in the season, including a fly in-fly out trip to the South Pole.
The price for the Island and Ice Travel ‘Emperors and Mountains of Dronning Maud Land’ tour is USD$56,000 per person.
The luxury accommodation at Ultima Oasis Camp is like a home away from home in the heart of the continent. 
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