Battambang Travel Guide (Local Tips & Neighborhood Guide)

Battambang (pronounced “Battambong”) is most popular as a short stopover between Siem Reap and the Thailand-Cambodia border. The city definitely still falls into “hidden gem” territory, as many tourists in Cambodia have not even heard of it, which is a travesty, because Battambang is an extremely worthy addition to any itinerary that passes through Eastern Cambodia.

I myself have visited Siem Reap four times, but I had never made the trip to the nearby Battambang until a few weeks ago. While I was there, I did a fair amount of exploring on a bicycle and interviewed several longtime expats to find some of the best “diamond in the rough” activities in the city and pieces of local knowledge.

I’ve condensed them into a Battambang travel guide you can consult to pack your experience in Battambang with as much local flair and cultural immersion as possible.

(iStock.com/TanesNgamsom)

How to get to Battambang

From Siem Reap

By far the most common origin before travelling to Battambang is Siem Reap. There are 3 common ways of getting from Siem Reap to Battambang: by bus, by riverboat, or by taxi.

The table below shows the distance, travel time, and approximate cost of these 3 travel methods.

Note 1: Riverboat travel is by far the most scenic way to get from Siem Reap to Battambang, but it is seasonal and often only available between July and November when the river level is high.

Note 2: The Battambang Airport started renovation in 2024 and is not open to flights for the time being.

From elsewhere

If you are not coming from Siem Reap, the best ways to travel to Battambang are:

By bus

Cambodian cross-country buses are not particularly comfortable in my experience. They’re better than city buses, but they’re not as comfortable as sleepers in most other countries. As always, though, bus travel is cheap and hassle-free. The table below provides bus travel distance, time, and approximate cost from several nearby cities other than Siem Reap.

(Tecnico/depositphotos.com)

By train

Trains in Cambodia are slow, just as slow as bus travel, in fact. They’re also more expensive than buses, and the country’s train “network” is limited to just one line (see the image below). It is the most scenic way to get around Cambodia, other than the river, though.

Dustin map here

Note: The Poipet-Sisophon-Battambang rail service is currently suspended.

By taxi

Taxis are the most convenient and quickest way to get around Cambodia. The approximate taxi times are about the same as the travel times in the “by bus” table above. The costs will be about 5-6x the cost of a single bus ticket, which means a taxi is almost as cheap if you’re travelling in a large group.

(urf/depositphotos.com)

By plane

As I mentioned, the Battambang Airport is currently closed for renovation. The closest airport is Kampong Chhnang, three hours away by road. The closest international airport is Siem Reap, four hours away by road. Check flight options here to Siem Reap.

Where to stay in Battambang

From firsthand exploration and local testimony, I’d recommend that you consider these five areas and pick one to stay in based on your travel style.

West River

Just to the west of the Sangker River, near Battambang Central Market, lies Battambang’s “city center”. I use that term loosely because Battambang’s tourist area is not as tightly concentrated as it is in cities like Siem Reap or Kampot.

The West River area of Battambang is a bit more integrated with local culture and offers more of a true Cambodian feel, even though it is the center of the well-preserved French architecture the city is known for.

It also contains a high density of tourist attractions like:

(Fotoember/depositphotos.com)

Even though you’re immersed in Cambodian life, staying here, though, it’s easy to navigate as a tourist. It’s packed with street food stalls, nightlife venues, restaurants with English menus, pharmacies, ATMs, travel agencies to book tours, and everything else a visitor may need. It’s also very walkable, and it has nice riverside views.

Of course, there are lots of guest houses in the area too. They’re slightly more expensive than other parts of the city, but that’s not saying much since Battambang is overall very inexpensive. Some of my top recommendations are:

East River

On the other side of the bridges (which are walkable via the thin sidewalks on either side) from the main market is the East River neighborhood, a more relaxed and suburban environment compared to the West side.

It has a few interesting things to see, like Wat Kandal (more on that below) and the Romichek 5 Artspace and Cafe, and Sar Kheng Park is a really nice place to walk around in the evening. For the most part, though, it’s best for more laid-back travelers who like being close to the action but want to take a break after the chaos of a big city like Phnom Penh or Bangkok.

The area offers a big range of accommodation costs and quality, but some recommendations to get the best bang for your buck are:

Wat Kor Village

Wat Kor is just a few minutes south of the “West River” area but feels like the true Cambodian countryside, complete with thatched-roof huts, cows and goats roaming the roads, and farmers driving wooden carts.

Like most rural areas of Cambodia, the locals are extremely friendly and will give you a smile whenever you pass. There are a few notable attractions among the greenery, like the Hanging Bridge crossing the river or the Anne Frank-esque museum in Mrs. Bun Roeung’s Ancient House, but the area is, for the most part, totally serene and a great place to soak up local culture.

Accommodations in the area are few and far between compared to the city and tend to be more expensive, but my top recommendations are:

Bat Cave Area

I’ll talk more about the Bat Cave itself in the next section, but it’s in a mountainous and jungle-choked area 30 minutes from the city center that is a perfect place for adventurous spirits to stay.

There’s very little in the way of civilization going on in the area other than the caves, but Kdoang Mountain and Trong Marn Mountain, which are on the southern and northern ends of the neighborhood, are great destinations for hiking or mountain biking. You can also go on shallow cave walks in the caves themselves.

(iStock.com/Wirestock)

While you probably don’t want to stay here for your whole trip, it’s a nice stop for a night or two if you want to get out into nature, especially because it’s so peaceful in the evening.

Additionally, the area has some of the nicest-looking homestays I saw in Battambang. Unfortunately, most of them have Khmer names, and I couldn’t find the prices, but the area is not a common place to stay, so I’d encourage you to go there and ask around to see if you can book one of them.

There’s always Family Batcave Homestay too, which is English-friendly and boasts gorgeous views. Plus, it’s only $16/night.

check all Options here

What to do in Battambang (including hidden gems)

Battambang isn’t as touristy as cities like Siem Reap or Phnom Penh, so at first it might seem like there’s not much to do.

If you do your research, though, you’ll find tons of diamonds in the rough.

The first five entries on the list below are the most iconic attractions in Battambang (rightfully so; they’re amazing), and the last six are better-kept secrets.

If you don’t have much time left in your Cambodia trip, it’s still possible to pay Battambang a quick visit to see the highlights.

The city is rich in history, and a guide will bring it to life with their deep knowledge and passion for sharing it. Explore the bat cave, wander through temples, and cross a scenic hanging bridge.

1. Watch the Bat Cave

Every evening between 5:30 and 6:00, bats fly out of a cave high up on the side of Phnom Sampeau. I’m not talking about small groups of a few dozen bats, either, but a long and uninterrupted torrent of over 1 million bats.

Bats flying in a row at Mount Phnom Sempeau

It’s an absolutely incredible spectacle, definitely one of the most amazing wildlife shows I’ve ever seen. The torrent lasts 30-45 minutes.

The nightly bat exodus is a natural phenomenon, so there’s no admission fee. There are a lot of local drinks and street food vendors along the road at the foot of the mountain, though, so just show up at around 5:00 to secure a good viewpoint and buy a drink.

2. Hike up to Wat Sampeau

There’s a tourist information booth just past the bat cave viewing area, and behind the booth is the entrance to a footpath leading up the mountain. The footpath, which includes a few sets of stairs, takes you past some amazing Buddhist carvings in the cliffside, along with statues and shrines of the religion.

The path up is beautiful, but there’s also a steep and narrow road you can take a motorbike taxi up for $2-3.

At the top of the mountain is Wat Sampeau, an impressive Buddhist shrine with curious monkeys wandering around. They’re cute, but don’t give them a chance to jump at you and grab your belongings.

3. Visit the Killing Cave

Also at the top of the mountain is the Killing Cave. Cambodia is unfortunately filled with locations that have a bloody Khmer Rouge history, and the Killing Cave is one of the more visceral ones I’ve seen.

The naturally cool cave is also very peaceful and respectful, but the guides or monks down there will share personal stories that are absolutely heart-wrenching. Not recommended for squeamish people. Admission is $3 per person.

This small but mighty tour packs all of Battambang’s highlights into one day. The guide’s stories are fun and insightful and it’s a great way to cover all the sightseeing without worrying about local transportation.

Highlights:

• Ride the bamboo train through the countryside
• Explore the haunting Killing Caves
• Visit hilltop temples
• End the day watching thousands of bats stream from Phnom Sampov at sunset

4. Go to Phare Circus

The Phare Circus is perhaps Cambodia’s most famous contribution to global pop culture, and it started here in Battambang.

The circus tent for Phare Battambang is about a 10-minute drive from the main market, and a tuk-tuk ride costs me $3. There is a cafe attached to the tent, too, so I ate on the premises.

The show itself costs $16 for adults, and there is no assigned seating, so it is a good idea to show up early. Shows are at 7:00 pm on Mondays, Thursdays, and Saturdays.

Words can’t do the show justice. Contortionists, acrobats, clowns, and traditional dancers are included, all of them performing to live music. It feels like a truly Cambodian experience, but also a world-class spectacle comparable in terms of talent (though maybe not quite in production value) to Cirque du Soleil.

5. Ride the Bamboo Train

The Bamboo Train, or “norry”, is probably the most iconic attraction in Battambang. It’s essentially a Cambodian-style mine cart that you sit on while a small motor pushes you along the tracks. It’s been written about extensively on the internet, so I’m not going to go into it too deeply here.

(urf/depositphotos.com)

One thing I do want to point out, though, is that there are 2 Bamboo Trains: an older, authentic Bamboo Train and a newer tourist trap Bamboo Train.

I unfortunately rode the “new Bamboo Train”, which is located near Banon Mountain, before I found out there are two. The track was obviously newly laid, and it just didn’t provide the gritty, rustic experience I had seen on some travel vlogs.

It wasn’t until after I left Cambodia that my friend, longtime Battambang resident Raymond Zepp, informed me that there is another Bamboo Train referred to as the “Lorry.” It’s not as comfortable, but it has the decrepit, rusty, rugged feel I was looking for. Plus, it’s half the price – only $7.

6. Wats Banan and Wat Ek Phnom

Wats Banan (iStock.com/urf) Wat Ek Phnom

I wasn’t overly impressed by Wat Banan or Wat Ek Phnom; Cambodia has lots of more spectacular temples, like Angkor Wat in Siem Reap or Wat Phnom in Phnom Penh. So I wouldn’t recommend going out of your way to see them. They are popular attractions, though, so a quick tip for each in case you find yourself there:

• At Wat Banan, take the steep stairs around the back of the temple instead of the more touristy ones up front. They’re a bit more treacherous, but a lot prettier.
• At Wat Ek Phnom, make sure to check out the Buddha statues behind the temple; they’re really cool and most tourists miss them.

Wats Banan and Ek Phnom cost $1 and $2 per person, respectively.

7. Visit Wat Kandal

Wat Banan and Wat Ek Phnom may be more popular, but Wat Kandal is my recommendation for a must-visit pagoda in Battambang. A Battambang local turned me onto it as a nice, peaceful meditation spot, which was surprising given its central location within walking distance of the central market.

(iStock.com/urf)

It is on the other side of the river, though, and the neighborhood it’s in is considerably quieter than the “city center,” even though it’s so close.

The colorful carvings on the main pagoda and the crumbling grey rock of the pagoda behind it are fascinating, but my local contact told me what really made him fall in love with the place was the garden in back.

He goes there every morning to meditate, and I could feel the serenity of the place when I went there later in the day and sat by the pond, watching local kids feed fish in the murky water.

8. Drink at King Fy Sky Bar

Whenever I stay in a city, I like to get a good view of its skyline from a sky bar if possible. In Battambang, I went to the bar at the King Fy Hotel that a local friend recommended. The view was great, the seating was comfortable, and both the beef lok lak and the mango smoothie I got for $5.50 total were quite good. The hotel is located just east of the river, in a quiet upscale neighborhood.

9. Cycle through the countryside

The lowlands around Battambang are known as the “rice bowl of Cambodia,” so cycling around is extremely picturesque. You can easily rent a bicycle from a tourist agency or guest house near the city center for $2/day, or $5/day for a mountain bike or motorbike.

Then, I’d recommend setting off to the south down the riverside, cutting through Wat Kor Village, and, if you’re the kind of person who loves having a destination, heading to the area around this community center for rice fields as far as the eye can see.

There are also lots of highly-rated cycling tours that take you around Battambang – I’d recommend the half-day Ride in the Countryside tour by Soksabike.

Editor’s Note: Online tour booking platforms also offer various options, such as this half-day walk and bike tour. You’ll meet a variety of craftspeople along the way, sample sticky rice and a fermented fish snack, and receive local insight from a guide and interact with Khmer families.

(Soksabike.com)

10. Hunt for street art

The area around the centrally located Wat Damrey Sol is full of alleys with colorful, animated murals painted on walls.

It’s lots of fun to look around yourself on a kind of “street art safari”, especially because there’s lots of cool French architecture nearby. Start at Road #2.5, as it’s the most famous street for the urban paintings.

11. Hold a baby crocodile

The crocodile farm in Battambang was a mixed bag.

On one hand, it was amazing. The family who runs it was super nice, and they let me hold a baby crocodile upon request. Seeing so many crocs up close was awe-inspiring and a little scary, too – it was definitely the most up-close-and-personal I’ve ever been to so many vicious-looking creatures.

On the other hand, it was definitely a little icky in terms of morality. The crocodiles had obviously multiplied so much that they didn’t have enough space, so they were practically piled on top of each other. If you’re still interested in going, admission is $4/person.

How to get around in Battambang

Battambang is a bit more spread out than most tourist towns, so you can’t really get around effectively on foot. The best transportation solutions are:

Rent a bike

As mentioned, most guest houses and travel agencies (which are plentiful near the central market) rent normal bicycles for $2/day and mountain bikes or motorbikes for $5/day.

Biking around Battambang is the best way to get a feel for the city and the surrounding areas at your own pace. It will also save you a lot on paid transportation, so renting a bike will probably save you money since Battambang is too spread out to be navigated on foot.

Use Grab or Passapp

Grab is a Singaporean ride-hailing app in the same vein as Uber, and its services are available everywhere in Southeast Asia. You can set up your credit card with it, and it takes wireless payments.

Passapp is a Cambodian-owned ride-hailing app, and it’s cheaper than Grab. Despite that, I found it to be easy to use, and the drivers were very friendly. You will need a Cambodian phone number to use it, though, and it only takes cash payment.

Use tuk-tuks

If you don’t have a Cambodian phone number, you’ll need to take tuk-tuks. You can approach drivers for a ride if you see them waiting on the sidewalk, or a hotel or tourism center can call one for you. Make sure to do your research beforehand to find a reasonable price, though, and be sure to agree on a price before you depart.

(Fotoember/depositphotos.com)

How much time to spend in Battambang

Two full days is a good amount of time to spend in Battambang if you just want to sample the chill riverside vibe and dabble in the most popular attractions, like the Bat Cave, the Bamboo Train, and the Phare Circus.

Five full days is a better length if you hope to try all the activities in this guide, including local excursions like hikes and bike rides.

When to visit Battambang

November-early February are the best months to visit, because the weather is comparatively dry and temperatures are moderate (32 Celsius / 90 Fahrenheit on average).

During late February-April, the climate gets more humid and hotter, averaging 38 Celsius / 100 Fahrenheit. In my opinion, this is the least fun time to visit Battambang.

May-September is the rainy season in Battambang. As I’ve said in past guides, I don’t mind the rainy season in Southeast Asia too much since there are fewer tourists, the nature is at its greenest, the rains tend to be warm, and it usually only rains for an hour or two at a time.

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