Visiting the Galápagos has been a lifelong dream of mine, inspired by countless wildlife programs watched from my sofa. Santa Cruz, the most populated island, is a key destination for anyone travelling to the Galápagos.
Spending 4 days in Santa Cruz Galapagos Islands was the perfect amount of time to explore the amazing wildlife, snorkelling tours, and exciting land adventures. Don’t get me wrong, I would have gladly stayed longer, but I was heading to Isabela Island to volunteer on a new Galápagos island adventure.
My travel guide to Santa Cruz Galápagos Islands highlights tour activities, top attractions, and accommodation options. The bonus gift is a handy map to help you plan your trip.
Blue-Footed Boobies on Santa Cruz
History of Santa Cruz Galapagos Islands
Santa Cruz, part of the Galápagos Islands, was discovered by Fray Tomás de Berlanga in 1535. During the 17th and 18th centuries, it served as a refuge for pirates and whalers. Charles Darwin’s visit in 1835 aboard the HMS Beagle was pivotal, as his observations on Santa Cruz contributed significantly to his theory of evolution.
The Galápagos were annexed by Ecuador in 1832, and Santa Cruz saw permanent settlements starting in the 1920s, with Puerto Ayora developing as a key town. In 1959, the Charles Darwin Foundation was founded to promote scientific research and conservation. That same year, the Ecuadorian government declared the islands a national park, protecting 97% of the land.
Today, Santa Cruz is a major tourism hub and the most populated town in the Galápagos Islands.
Itinerary Planning For Santa Cruz Galapagos
I was volunteering on Isabela Island so I spent a little time speaking with tour agencies, got lots of numbers and did some negotiations via WhatsApp for my return to Santa Cruz.
Many travellers to the Galapagos don’t have the luxury of slow travel and are on a tight schedule to keep the costs down so don’t have much spare time to go trawling around the tour agencies. Whilst there are tour agencies on every street in Puerto Ayora, it is worth getting the full itinerary to compare tours. You must do your research before arrival on which tours you want to do so you can hit the tour agencies.
For a stress-free experience, I’ve provided options to book in advance. Once your tours are booked, you can fill your free time with several free Galapagos activities (yes, they do exist), such as visiting Laguna las Ninfas, Tortuga Bay and exploring the town of Puerto Ayora.
Don’t have time to read the full blog just now? Here are some quick links to plan a 4 day Santa Cruz Galapagos Islands trip, or longer!
Santa Cruz Island Galapagos map
DAY 1: Snorkel + Puerto Ayora
Snorkel Trip to Daphne Major
Daphne Major, located north of Santa Cruz island, is a tuff cone volcanic landmass alongside its’ smaller sister volcano, Daphne Minor, neither of which has any trees.
Daphne Major serves primarily as a research site as it is an important nesting site for Galapagos bird species. The island is home to various species of Darwin’s finches and is renowned for the 40-year study of these birds conducted by evolutionary biologists Peter and Rosemary Grant.
Armed with a zoom lens, I caught sightings that included swallow-tailed gulls sleeping, Nazca boobies staring straight at us, brown pelicans scooping up fish in their oversized beaks, and blue-footed boobies torpedoing into the ocean.
The tour included two snorkel stops around Daphne Major, observing a huge gliding manta ray, shimmering fish, orange starfishes en masse and a family of eagle rays. A magnificent sight was a colossal school of black-striped salemas that covered the bottom and the steep volcanic edge like a carpet. Our guide warned us not to swim over the top as this is the perfect feeding ground for Galapagos sharks.
The tour included two snorkel stops, some time exploring Bahía Borrero sandy beach with lunch on board the yacht. I booked my excursion with the tour agencies in Santa Cruz for $120.
|| Daphne Major for bird-watching and snorkelling => Read reviews of Daphne Major tours
Manta Ray by Daphne Major
Visit Laguna las Ninfas
The “Laguna de las Ninfas” is an idyllic turquoise saltwater pool encircled by dense mangroves. Expect to see plenty of colourful fish, majestic herons, and frigatebirds gliding overhead. I’ve heard that you can also spot sea lions, stingrays, and baby blacktip reef sharks, but I wasn’t fortunate enough to see them!
The Lagoon of the Nymphs is an ideal hidden treasure if you prefer not to venture too far from Puerto Ayora. The boardwalks were closed off during my visit due to the need for renovation work.
Laguna las Ninfas, Santa Cruz
Explore Puerto Ayora
There is no shortage of options for retail therapy in the shops and galleries in Puerto Ayora.Shop for Galapagos-inspired souvenirs from high-quality ornaments by local artisans to run-of-mill gifts, t-shirts and mugs. Visit the Angelique Art Gallery for unique designs, and Galería Exótico who supports ancestral cultures and displays contemporary Ecuadorian art.
Puerto Ayora Fish Market is a bustling spot with ‘wildlife’ looking for scraps as the ladies gut the catch, each with its own method. A sea lion butts her legs looking all cute, pelicans waiting to be served, and great herons ready to project their long necks for their daily feed.
Puerto Ayora Pier is alive at night with black-tip reef sharks, sea lions barking at each other, and lava gulls staring into the water for their next catch.
For a budget bite, head to the empanada stand on Calle Islas Duncan which is surrounded by hungry locals awaiting theirmuch-loved Ecuadorian street food fix. Choose between the list of savoury and sweet flavours, the fresh dough is laden with filling and dropped into the sizzling fat. The light and crunchy empanada just melted in my mouth, and I may be guilty of a return visit!
Empanada – Typical Ecuador Street Food
DAY 2: Diving + Darwin
Scuba Diving Trip from Santa Cruz Galapagos
Scuba diving in the Galápagos was one of my top experiences in the world, and I would gladly do it again! Our dive sites were Mosquera and Daphne Major, where we were fortunate enough to see a shiver of hammerheads. I had to conceal my fear when we encountered Galápagos sharks though!
And that’s not all for the underwater magic! We encountered sea turtles, white-tip reef sharks, stingrays, and huge starfish, just to name a few. The abundance of fish, including king angelfish, pufferfish, Pacific creolefish, and trumpetfish, made it feel like being in a real-life aquarium.
I strongly endorse Galapagos Travellers for their excellent service. Despite not having dived for several years, they made me feel comfortable and offered Discovery Dives on the same boat, allowing me to dive alongside my friend. Booking through a tour agency resulted in an additional $10 charge compared to booking directly.
|| Book with Galapagos Travellers. The dive site will depend on the weather, current and experience of the group.
Sea Turtle spotted on the dive
Spot the Street Art in Puerto Ayora
Puerto Ayora features several striking murals, tiled arches, and creatively adorned shops, and, unsurprisingly, the wildlife theme is strong. I discovered an outdoor gallery celebrating the anniversary of the Galápagos Islands’ designation as a UNESCO Natural Heritage Site for Humanity.
Visit Charles Darwin Research Station
The Charles Darwin Foundation is dedicated to conservation and research in the Galápagos Islands. Established in 1959, it operates the Charles Darwin Research Station, focusing on protecting the unique ecosystems and biodiversity of the archipelago through scientific research, education, and policy recommendations.
When you visit the Charles Darwin Research Station, there is a shaded open-air museum as well as an indoor building full of information on wildlife, flora and fauna. It’s insightful to learn about ongoing conservation and research projects such as shark migrations and preventing the extinction of threatened plant species.
The Santa Cruz Tortoise Center runs breeding programs for giant tortoises on the islands of Pinzón, Española, Floreana and Santa Fe. As you walk through, there are pens with tortoises of various ages as part of the captive breeding program for the Fausto Llerena Tortoise Center which was originally started in 1965 to save the tortoise population on Pinzón Island.
There is a special temperature-controlled room where the infamous Lonesome George is displayed in taxidermied form. His death sadly marked the extinction of the Pinta species.
|| Charles Darwin Research Station is open Monday-Sunday, from 08:00 to 18:00 | Costs: Free to enter + Guided tour $10
Saddle-backed Giant Tortoise
DAY 3: Frigatebirds + Beers
North Seymour Day Trip
I had heard that North Seymour is the ultimate place to see the iconic magnificent frigatebirds but it wasn’t cheap, so this full-day tour was a special gift to me. I was informed that the only way to visit on my specific dates is on a first-class yacht, which includes a three-course lunch, snorkelling, beach visit and landing on North Seymour.
North Seymour was the Galapagos bird-watching experience I’d hoped for. Nesting frigatebirds with inflated scarlet chests and juveniles with white heads. The clumsy blue-footed boobies were fussing over their young, whilst nocturnal swallow-tailed gulls slept amongst the rocks and endemic Galapagos land iguanas were shading and rustling around the dry vegetation.
|| Check out some amazing North Seymour tours to book ahead
When we landed on Mosquera Beach, it was baby sea lion season. We saw adorable pups playing in the water under the protection of their parents, while lava gulls fed on sea lion placentas. One shocking sight was Galápagos sharks coming into the shallow waters to attack and feed on a sea lion, as frigatebirds circled above, waiting for scraps. Honestly, these are scenes from the natural world that you usually only see on TV!
Snorkelling by Daphne Major was alive with schools of yellow-tailed surgeon fish and parrot fish, white-tip reef sharks sleeping on the bottom, and eagle rays gliding below us.
Craft Beer scene in Puerto Ayora
Puerto Ayora is the last place I expected to find a craft beer scene. Here are a couple of microbreweries and taprooms you should try;
Santa Cruz Brewery overlooks the port, making its balcony the best spot for sunset views and people-watching. Not only is it the first brewery in the Galápagos, but its mission to sustainably produce craft beer on the island has also been a success. I loved the Carapachuda porter, which is blended with Galápagos coffee. They also offer beers infused with organic cherries and passion fruit.
The Rock Galapagos is a pub serving Asian food and its’ award-winning Iguana Rock Craft Beer. They brew flavours from Belgian Pale Ale, American IPA and Weissbier with sustainability at the heart of their production.
Craft beer scene in Puerto Ayora
DAY 4: Beach + Lava
Explore Tortuga Bay
If you are looking for free things to do in the Galapagos, then don’t miss Tortuga Bay on Santa Cruz Island. Walking down the path to the beach was a treat in itself with the lined with prickly pear cactus (Opuntia) and sightings of yellow warblers, Galapagos flycatchers, lava lizards, Darwin finches and smooth-billed Ani.
The manchineel tree grows freely in Tortuga Bay, and it’s worth familiarizing yourself with it. Known as “manzanilla de la muerte” or “the little apple of death,” its fruit can be lethal to humans. The leaves can also cause blistering and swelling of the skin. However, giant tortoises can eat the manzanilla without any adverse effects.
Along the white sandy beach of Tortuga Bay, I saw a large group of marine iguanas basking in the sun, hermit crabs walking in the shade and Sally Lightfoot crabs on the volcanic rocks. For the birdlife, I saw pelicans in the trees or on the rocks, lava herons creeping around the rocks, and sanderlings and noddy terns scampering along the shoreline. Tortuga Bay is easy on a budget and packed full of wildlife!
Marine Iguanas on Tortuga Bay
Visit Las Greitas or El Chato + Lava Tunnels
I didn’t have time for an additional activity, but if you spend a full 4 days in Santa Cruz Galapagos Islands, you might want to try one of these two trips that were on my research list. I had already spent plenty of time with giant tortoises and explored the volcanic landscapes and lava tunnels on Isabela Island, so I didn’t leave disappointed.
Las Greitas
Las Grietas is a stunning series of volcanic crevices filled with crystal-clear, brackish water, perfect for swimming and snorkelling. I was told by my hostel that this should not be top of your list so I left it to the end to see if I had the chance to squeeze in a visit, and alas I did not. For the price of a water taxi, it’s great for travellers on a budget in the Galapagos.
Start from Puerto Ayora and take a 5-minute water taxi from the main dock to the other side of the bay. From the drop-off point, take a 20-minute walk on a trail that winds through unique lava rock formations and past a salt mine, to reach the swimming spot. Water taxis are leaving regularly back to Puerto Ayora.
El Chato + Lava Tunnels
El Chato Tortoise Reserve on Santa Cruz Island is a sanctuary for giant tortoises where they roam freely in their natural habitat. The reserve is also a great spot for bird watching, with species like Darwin’s finches, and mockingbirds commonly seen.
Near El Chato are the lava tunnels which were created when the outer parts of lava flows cooled and hardened while the inside remained molten and flowed away.
|| Visit El Chato & Lava Tunnels by Bike or simply buy tickets to Reserva El Chato and take a taxi there
Need to know before visiting Santa Cruz Galapagos
Best Santa Cruz Galapagos Hotels
Puerto Ayora is a busy hub for travellers passing through to other islands or exploring local attractions. This guide will help you find where to stay on Santa Cruz Island Galapagos for budget travellers and those who like a spot of luxury accommodation. These options were either experienced personally or recommended by fellow travellers.
BUDGET ($) – Hostal Vista Al Mar is located near the ferry port. Has dorms and private rooms, as well as a communal kitchen and gardens with hammocks.
MID-RANGE ($$) – La K-leta Boutique Guesthouse has a beautiful garden, and each room has a patio and a seating area. Full breakfast included.
AFFORDABLE LUXURY ($$$) – Semilla Verde Boutique Hotel is a traditional guesthouse in the highlands set on grounds with giant tortoises. Full breakfast included.
LUXURY ($$$$) – Blu Galapagos Sustainable Waterfront Lodge is a stylish resort with a terrace, lounge, reading spot, and eco-friendly shop.
How to reach Santa Cruz Galapagos
It is only possible to reach the Galápagos Islands by flying from Quito or Guayaquil. To get to Santa Cruz Galapagos Islands, there are two options.
- Fly to Baltra + transfer to Santa Cruz: After landing in Baltra, take a bus to the Itabaca Channel, cross the channel by ferry, and then take another bus or taxi to Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island. Read my In-depth guide on getting from Baltra Airport to Puerto Ayora
- Fly to San Cristobal + transfer to Santa Cruz: To experience two islands, another popular option is to fly into San Cristobal, take the ferry to Santa Cruz, and fly out of Baltra.
Is it safe in Santa Cruz Galapagos?
Yes, Santa Cruz in the Galápagos is generally safe for tourists and I felt the local community was welcoming. Even though crime rates are low, it’s important to take standard precautions: secure your belongings, stay aware of your surroundings, and follow local guidelines and regulations. Natural hazards such as rough terrain and strong currents should also be considered when exploring the island.
As always, remember to book your travel insurance.Here are some tried-and-tested options for you to get quotes;
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=> SafetyWing for Digital Nomads
Can you pay by card in Santa Cruz Galapagos?
Most places take cards in Santa Cruz Galapagos but will charge you 10% for the pleasure so it’s best to keep a stash of cash in a safe or locker at your hostel to pay for tours, or even accommodation.
If bring cash from your home country, request denominations of $20 or less. Most places do like $50 or $100 bills.
Where is the ATM in Puerto Ayora?
Banco Boliviano (middle ATM) next to the Proinsular supermarket is the best option ($300 limit, $2 fee). Banco Pacifico limits withdrawals to $200 for a $4.48 fee. Pichincha has a $500 limit for a similar fee.
Best time to visit Santa Cruz Galapagos
There is no bad time to visit the Galapagos. We all go for the wildlife and this is guaranteed all year round.
=> December to May (Warm Season): Temperatures from 70°F to 85°F (21°C to 29°C)
=> June to November (Cool Season): Temperatures from 60°F to 75°F (16°C to 24°C)
PIN for Santa Cruz Galapagos Islands
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